![]() ![]() Your idea is fine (I'd probably do something similar myself) but for piece of mind, and for certification purposes the OP should make sure it is signed off by an engineer or demonstrate that it meets the relevant span tables for products used. I'm not trying to be alarmist but your builder has already made a very basic stuff up, you need to make sure that any rectification work is more than just window dressing to make you happy.Īnd old chippy, that is in no way a shot at you. Whatever the builder does make sure he gets it approved by your engineer or clearly demonstrates that it meets the required span tables for the product used.Īnyone on this forum or even your builder can recommend a solution that may well fix the problem but unless it is certified by an engineer then it really doesn't matter. As you mentioned, you have a set of approved plans that include engineered drawings for the sub-floor, these haven't been followed. The problem isn't bounce, the problem is that you have a house not built to engineers specification. You could simply glue and screw another layer of flooring at right angles to the existing flooring and it will stiffen the floor up substantially. There are many things you can do to reduce bounce. He might grumble about it, but it seems like a good idea to do it now while everything is still open, rather than risk any problems later. I've asked the builder to double up the joists as you've suggested. ![]() This is excellent stuff and exactly what I hoped to get from this forum real-world advice from the experts. Long batten screws,sort of tying all the joists together,so for one to go down it has to pull the both each side with it. I have fixed this by getting underneath and batten screwing a piece of 90x45 on its flat across the underside of the joists, When they have had a party,some 20-30 people on it,and although it is built to code still gives a bit. Within 50mm of the plates and glued and gunned to the existing one.2 rows of blocking in-between would also help.Īlong the same lines,I have found when doing decks,single span deep joists,clients have told me that it feels springy, If you fixed another one of the same size next to every second one it would probably sort out anyīounce problems.The additional one wouldn't even have to be sitting on the top plate,as long as it was They are also important to consult to ensure you are complying with building codes, optimizing material usage, and maintaining consistency in the construction industry.OK, lets throw the rule book out the window. Span tables are essential for ensuring safety and reducing the risk of structural failures that can lead to accidents, injuries, or property damage. The Southern Forest Products Association’s (SPFA) span tables are a result of that investment. The lumber industry conducts ongoing testing and invests millions of dollars to provide the most accurate and reliable design values for structural lumber, including Southern Pine. They help you determine how far a wooden beam or joist can span between support points, such as walls or beams, without compromising safety and structural integrity. Lumber span tables are valuable guides which provide the maximum allowable spans for different types and sizes of Southern Pine and pressure-treated lumber under various load conditions. ![]() That’s when you break out the span tables. When it comes to building with Southern Pine lumber, ensuring the structural integrity requires careful understanding how to use the lumber. Forest Products Machinery & Equipment EXPO.Headers & Beams : Allowable Load Tables.Headers & Beams : Size Selection Tables. ![]()
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